By Alex Reeves – @afreeves23
Somehow, it’s July already. One day you’re sitting at Hà Nội Taco Fest making big plans for the months ahead, the next you’re wondering why this article took you so long. The city's Taco Fest always feels like the passing of the seasons, floating around in late April and early May. It’s not hard to convince even the most reclusive of friends to get out and enjoy the anticipation of what’s to come, before the cool weather of Spring decides to take a break.
Taco Time: The 100 Garden and Hanoi Events collaborate to organise one of the tastiest days of the year. Photo courtesy of Hanoi Events
Fortunately enough, Hà Nội’s rich array of Mexican options don’t take a break, and neither does the quality of their tacos. Summer provides the perfect opportunity to revisit the best spots in town and make sure my taste buds weren’t engaging in acts of deception, dizzy on the fervour of a day at The 100 Garden, filled with shells of fresh tasty goodness.
Packed and stacked: All components in specials such as the Carne Asada wrap supreme are homemade with love. Photo courtesy of Anita’s Cantina
It’s far from the full story, but Taco Fest narrowed it down to two top spots – Anita’s Cantina and Naco Taco. I would be lying if I said this didn’t make me happy while also making my life easier. These were my top picks well in advance, and they were rightfully recognised for their quality on the day, and somehow that doesn’t feel like a coincidence.
First up was Anita’s, serving out a fully in-house, handmade menu since October 2016.
“We make every little thing on our menu, from the tortillas to the sour cream by hand, with love. I say it's all handmade, because nothing beats homemade,” said founder Javier Rodriguez.
Birria means business: Arguably the holy grail of Hà Nội's traditional Mexican offerings, Naco Taco’s Birria is a beauty. Photo courtesy of Naco Taco
Rodriguez’s family is Mexican-American, and he heralds from the South-Texas border, where the distinction between the two is rarely acknowledged in neither life nor food.
“They spoke Spanish, ate rice and beans, and pledged allegiance to the American flag. I guess that makes the food TexMex, but that term means different things to different people,” he said
It’s a sentiment I can engage with, without splitting spices or hairs. The word authentic does risk rendering entire cuisines, cooked for a variety of palates, across two nations and many regions, into very narrow spice-racks.
Ultimately, what’s undeniable is that this is damn good food with weekly specials such as the ceviche-inspired taco which triumphed back in May, alongside crunchy, crispy and soft textures in meat, veg and bread, available daily.
Since buying a Banh Mi cart almost a decade ago and seeing increasingly unfamiliar faces at his pop-ups, Rodriguez followed that momentum with what we now know as Anita’s Cantina – named after the woman who helped raise him. Love is truly at the heart of their food.
Naco Taco turned four in March. It almost feels strange to think that this quintessential Tây Hồ offering was born out of pandemic embers, with its impact on our collective moods and consciousness. Without Cyan Michel preserving his lockdown tempered sanity in the kitchen, he never would have cooked out of the bar in which he met co-founder Octavio Jáuregui and ultimately founded Naco Taco.
Taco Champs: Javier Rodriguez and Anita’s Cantina team took top prize at this year's event, voted by festival attendees. Photo courtesy of Hanoi Events
With their collective love of food, Octavio’s background in spirits and a desire to celebrate the culinary produce of their shared homeland – we got Naco. Two-time winners of the Taco Fest in previous years and with a commitment to importing Mexican only ingredients, we get a truly traditional taste and a space that many Mexicans choose for a vibe that transports them homewards, at least for a few hours.
I’m generally one for suggesting people trust their cravings, but if you go here and don’t get the birria, served as tender beef tacos with a side of consommé, the broth making for a rich dipping sauce, then you’re missing out (and that’s me being polite). Explore the rest of the menu alongside and ensure you indulge in the finest selection of mezcal in the city.
The Birria Bros: Naco Taco founders Octavio (left) and Cyan (right) were the judges favourites in 2022 & 2023. Photo courtesy of Hanoi Events
TexMex or authentic, here we have two differing ideas, but restaurants which would hold their own in any city on the continent. Mexican chefs are so often the line cooks and the backbone of kitchens across the US. Now, their own food is a much celebrated mainstay across the world, with no scene complete in their absence. These two exist and compete in the same space, giving us consumers and amateur critics, the chance to indulge. Buen provecho! VNS
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Names: Anita’s Cantina and Naco Taco
Addresses: 6 Quảng Bá Street, Quảng An Ward, Tây Hồ District
103 Lane 47 Quảng Khánh Street, Quảng An Ward, Tây Hồ District
Tel: 0866 883 435 and 0949 009 132
Price: VNĐ500k - 1000k depending on how hungry you’re feeling.
Dining companions: Anyone can find something they like here.
Top tip: Try both of these spots and find your favourite, or keep taking turns.
OVietnam