By Alex Reeves - @afreeves23
Long Biên [District]. Hà Nội’s eastern urban sprawl has become an increasingly popular destination for a host of economic activity, not least of all, food, and plenty of it. As the iconic bridges get busier by the week, so do the bars and restaurants.
An emergent and notably French culinary movement is afoot, with the banks of the Red River proving fertile ground for such scenic ventures as today’s focus. A gastronomic beacon, signalling to us from across the water: Quinza.
Spoilt for choice: A French and Italian tapas affair. — Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves
The first thing anyone will notice when they arrive at Quinza is that it is in fact a garden. Indoor space is limited, but seating is abundant. Views of the river, long tables for group and family affairs or intimate two-seaters, all remain well-lit into the evening to take full advantage of the outdoor space – with a little seasonal help from the fans, umbrellas and heaters on hand.
Second, the menu. While a broad menu can sometimes be something to be wary of due to the exhaustive pursuit to please everyone by putting all foods under one roof. Here, you need not worry. There is no roof, and with no roof, there is no ceiling to the variety in which you can indulge.
The concept is, as manager and founder Ugo Marangoni tells me, “simple”. Back in 2019, he joined up with friends and fellow founders Cyprien Pierlovisi and Chef Raphael Le May to bring together French bistro and Italian restaurant style food into one garden. The aim was to bring an authentic European dining experience to the discerning palates of Việt Nam without compromising on the authenticity or quality of ingredients.
Fast forward four years, through a global and industry-damaging pandemic, to a November evening in 2023 and business is good. Seats are full, local business owners, families and couples are all tucking into the medley of classics and invention available to them.
Quinza’s ongoing success in spite of the global pandemic and what used to be an ever so slightly ‘off-grid’ location is of no surprise when we realise co-founder Cyprien Pierlovisi is the restaurateur also responsible for such popular and enduring eateries as French inspired ‘Cousins’ and ‘Cugini - Ristorante Italiano’.
Filling up: Customers filter in late into the evening. — Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves
This restaurant is a narrative of origins – it draws inspiration from the successes of other beloved eateries in the city, the culinary legacies of the owners' homelands, and the carefully sourced ingredients that traverse great distances to maintain the quality Quinza prides itself on.
Even the name ‘Quinza’ was not just pulled from thin air, it also has a tale to tell. Derived from the French word for fifteen, 'Quinze', and residing at 15a Ngọc Thụy Street, the name seamlessly evolved into the playful and catchy 'Quinza'. It's a nod to the simplicity of both the idea and dishes on hand; pasta, pizza and more cheese than you can throw a cracker at.
It's akin to a French and Italian tapas affair, our choice this particular evening was a number of selections from the barbecue board. 100g of Australian lamb chop (VNĐ160,000/US$6.50), 100g of Iberico pork Toulouse sausage (VNĐ110,000/$4.50), two Argentinian jumbo prawns (VNĐ120,000/$5) and 100g of red tuna loin (VNĐ95,000/$4) after having enjoyed six fresh oysters (VNĐ660,000/$27) to start.
We then finished up with something which felt almost inevitable when perusing the menu at Quinza; crêpes (VNĐ360,000/$15). Or as they fondly call them, 'galettes’. Originating from the Bretagne region of France, these savoury or sweet delights are yet a further cry back to the origins of the men behind this venture.
Ugo and Raphael proudly claim to be the sole purveyors in town serving up such an authentic rendition of these flavour-packed parcels, generously laden with an assortment of cheeses and a plethora of tantalising combinations including, honey, smoked salmon and caramelised apples, best enjoyed with a glass of French cider (so I am reliably informed).
Off the grill: Be sure to check out the barbecue board for the best bites. — Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves
As you might expect in a French/Italian inspired venue, libations are not merely an afterthought and are in no short supply. With 10 draught beers and ciders alongside what can only be described as a 'whopping' 100 wine options, plus some classic Apéri and Digestifs, it's safe to say that your choice of tipple will be well catered for.
Each of the aforementioned treats was fresh, juicy, well-seasoned, appropriately garnished and devoured at a pace slightly quicker than I would usually care to admit. The food is delicious and having spent a recent Sunday afternoon enjoying the sunset and their homemade rillettes de canard (pulled duck pâté), spread liberally over fresh toasted bread with a glass of wine, it really has become a rare, regular fixture for me in a city so packed with choice.
My only final thoughts here are to do yourself a favour next time you’re considering how to impress that date or where to treat your family to a lovely meal, without going completely overboard. Cross the bridge into Long Biên [District], pull up a chair at Quinza and let them do what they do best. — VNS
OVietnam