Thu Hà

Hell rice, locally known as cơm âm phủ, attracts a lot of visitors to the central province of Huế thanks to its historical significance as a dish served in the old imperial court. 

"Despite its curious name, the dish’s aromatic flavour has made brought diners from around the world," said Chef Phạm Tuấn Hải, who was one of the judges of Việt Nam’s Master Chef programme.

“Although being a professional chef, I still hunt for the dish every time I visit Huế. A plate of hell rice includes grilled or boiled pork, herbs, salad and some other ingredients,” he said, adding that the aesthetics of the dish also make it stand out. 

Legend has it the dish came into being during the Nguyễn Dynasty (1802-1945). An emperor disguised as an ordinary person travelled outside of the palace and stopped at the house of an elderly woman to ask for a meal.

Although the lady was poor, she still treated the guest with a plate of white rice surrounded by vegetables and fried eggs.

The emperor had his dinner in a very dark atmosphere with a lamp burning oil next to him, leading him to call it hell rice.

When returning to his palace, the emperor remembered the characteristics of the dish. He hired chefs to cook hell rice. Finally, the head chef Tống Phước Kỷ successfully cooked hell rice to serve the emperor.

It is said that after retiring Kỷ opened a restaurant serving the dish beloved by emperors and lords. Thanks to Kỷ’s efforts hell rice had been preserved and handed down until today, said Hải. 

Hải said even professional chefs will never forget the special flavour of the rib cutlet, pork paste, sour fermented meatballs, fried eggs, shrimp, and herbs with white rice dipped in a sweet and sour sauce mixed with minced garlic, chili and quality fish sauce.

Nguyễn Thị Minh, owner of a renowned restaurant in Nguyễn Thái Học Street in Huế, said the dish should always be topped with a special dipping sauce.

The restaurant, which came into being in 1916, serves hell rice from morning to night with a price between VNĐ 25,000-35,000 per dish. 

Guests to the restaurant agreed that the hell rice is so enjoyable that they will return when visiting Huế. VNS

In the box

There are a number of famous hell rice restaurants in Huế. They include: Cơm âm phủ 35 Nguyễn Thái Học Str; Cơm Huế at 29 Lương Văn Can Street; Quán cơm âm phủ Huế at 54 Phan Châu Trinh Str; Quan cơm âm phủ ABC at 48 Ngô Quyền Str; Quán cơm Xuân Trang at 42 Chu Văn An Str and Quán cơm âm phủ O Hồng at 372A Bùi Thị Xuân Str. Prices range from VNĐ15,000-35,000.