By Alex Reeves

@afreeves23

With some fresh time off and an ever decreasing list of well-known domestic destinations left to visit, early September’s Independence Day celebrations provided the perfect opportunity to tread some uncharted territory. The weekend belonged to me and for the weekend, my tastebuds belonged to Huế.

Famed for their refined and balanced flavours, Huế’s dishes are known throughout the country for being distinctive, even to those who are yet to sample them. Despite spending the best part of a decade working diligently through the nation's offerings, many of the dishes I indulged in were entirely new to me.

Now, using a certain Anthony’s surname might seem a little clickbaity, but after an unprolific writing season, with only two reviews since springtime, I was feeling a little disheartened. Enter Bourdain and his Việt Nam heavy catalogue of shows for a sprinkle of cool inspiration on a hot, heavy and unproductive summer.

In his penultimate of eight shows here, the former chef who inspired so many journeys to these shores, highlighted Huế with a ‘Vietnam’ episode based almost exclusively in the imperial capital.

Partnering him? The late journalist, gifted writer and fine watering hole proprietor - Nguyễn Quí Đức. Many of my articles have been completed in the spaces he cultivated. They are both deeply missed.

Again impassioned by thoughts of parts unknown and new flavours that were waiting for me, the idea of retracing Bourdain’s footsteps, a guilty pleasure I’ve indulged before, became the focus of my travels. With Google Maps preloaded and my checklist ready, I set out to find some food to write home about.

First up, the lesser spotted cơm hến, a proper bowl of the good stuff, seemingly non-existent up north, and believe me, I’ve looked.

Served on every other street corner in Huế, this local culinary staple is everything you want by the roadside. The only problem? The amount of roadsides in Huế and the absence of any reliable intel for which Bourdain settled on. 

 A local recommendation later and I was venturing under a bridge by the Perfume River to a bustling bowl in the wall - Cơm Hến 17.

Rice or vermicelli, covered by a generous helping of herbs, chilli, peanuts and fresh baby clams with crispy pork skin and shallots. Alongside hot clam broth and the company of a perspiring can of Huda, this is what I came for, I had arrived.

Despite my ‘Bourdain Trail’ being off to a rocky start, I rested well, safe in the knowledge that tomorrow’s lunch would be smoother. I mean, bún bò Huế, in one of Huế’s central markets?

The exact spot where two men whose judgement I hold in such high regard engaged in such shared hyperbole as “the greatest soup in the world” and “the top of the mountain”? If a ‘sure thing’ existed, this must be it, right? 

Wrong. After double-checking the location, seeing the small crowd of buzzing tourists, even recognising the owner's face, I was let down. Alas, time changes and so do places. I never criticise in my culinary chronicles, but the absence of further commentary and a second bowl search should speak volumes.

Driving away from the market, it seemed that abandoning the trail was my best bet. Fortunately, one doesn’t have to wander far in the former Imperial City to stumble upon good bún bò. Even a Sunday evening on Võ Thị Sáu (No 69) provided just what I needed.

Distinct from the Hà Nội offerings and reminiscent of the single bowl I sheltered over during a stormy Tết bike trip some years ago. Spicy and rich, imbued with lemongrass and shrimp paste, and brimming with banana blossoms, beansprouts, crab meat dumplings, beef shank, and pork knuckle. The summit? Not quite. Base camp? Definitely. 

Out went the overpriced seafood reservation, in came a local salad recommendation from Hà Nội restaurateur, Guy Dickson. Having lived there for over a year, I was excited for his “absolute favourite beef salad”, and the fragrant and juicy bò bóp thấu which greeted me at Quán Ăn Bà Chanh did not disappoint. If visiting, do not skip the crab soup. Thank me later.

Finishing up, I visited Bà Đỏ, a no nonsense local favourite specialising in bánh khoái, crispy and fulfilling alongside the daintier bánh bèo and ram ít which are a true throwback to imperial court food. The greater emphasis on presentation of multiple small, beautifully crafted dishes shown in these individually prawn coated displays of gelatinous goodness.

The lesson to be learnt here? While it’s enticing to follow in the footsteps of giants, adventure prevails. Bourdain’s legacy shouldn’t be directing people towards specific spots, quite the opposite.

The whole point is to get lost and thrive in the process of finding the food you want to try. Don’t listen to him, me, or anyone else for that matter. Trust your instincts and enjoy the rewards of your wandering. VNS

Cơm Hến 17 - 17 Hàn Mặc Tử - 0985 978 931

Bún Bò Huế Sen - 69 Võ Thị Sáu - 0932 413 313

Quán Ăn Bà Chanh - 9 Trường Chinh - 0234 3823 311

Bánh Bèo Nậm Lọc Bà Đỏ - 8 Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm - 0234 3541 182

Price: No dish exceeded VNĐ100,000

Dining companion: Convince your friends to take a trip to Huế

Top Tip: Use these spots as a guide but feel free to wander.