Thanh Hà

Hà Nội is famous worldwide not only for its history and heritage and wonderful parks and buildings, but it is also a paradise of traditional dishes, including skewered grilled pork meat which has become one of the favoured snacks among foodies, particularly youngsters.

The skewered grilled pork meat, locally known as thịt xiên nướng, is available in the city’s almost pavement corners, particularly in markets and stalls near schools to serve students.

My friend Hoàng Kim Oanh, who moved to Denmark several decades ago, recently returned to Hà Nội to visit her relatives and my home.

“While living abroad, I miss and crave our Vietnamese traditional dishes, such as phở (noodle soup), thịt xiên nướng and many other dishes so much.

“When passing by Hàm Long Street in the city downtown, the special fragrance from skewered grilled meat comes flying out from a stall and hit me, making my mouth water,” my friend told me.

Yes, Oanh is right. The dish not only has a great taste, but the smell of the skewers cooking pulls in those passing by, looking for a snack. We decided to go out for the dish at a corner of Hàm Long Street.

When we arrive, the stall is surrounded by those looking for a snack, most of them students who are regulars, drawn by the tasty value. 

Despite being so busy, the stall owner, Khúc Thị Loan, gave us a welcoming smile and invited us to take a seat to wait for our turn.

Five minutes passed and Loan’s husband brought us a plate of ten skewers, along with a bowl of chilli sauce. 

The sizzle from the skewers and the amazing smell was so appealing, we immediately tucked in, took a stick and dipped it in the chilli sauce. “Oh, it’s so amazing. I enjoy it so much,” Oanh said.

The seller also suggested we try the grilled pork skewers with roasted bread. The aroma and sweet of the meat combined with nutty and crispy bread, created such scrumptious dish, Oanh said that she had missed the taste of her home for such a long time. 

To make the best quality and tastiest skewers, Loan orders pork blade from regular pig farmers in Hà Nội’s Ba Vì District. The pork should be cleaned carefully before cutting into thin slices and soaking them in spices, sugar, oyster oil and honey for two hours.

The soaked meat is then skewed and grilled to serve eaters on the spot, said Loan, adding that each skewer is alternately arranged between lean and fatter pork so as to avoid it from being too dry or too greasy.

Loan told Việt Nam News that she often grilled the blade skewers over wooden charcoal to ensure food safety and hygiene for eaters.

Opening every day until 7pm, costing VNĐ5,000 per skewer (twenty cents each) Loan sells more than 1,000 skewers of grilled meat per day.

A couple of foodies, Minh Anh and her boyfriend from Hai Bà Trưng Street, said they are regulars at the stall and have become 'addicted' to Loan’s dish because of its scrumptious and savoury elements. 

“The grilled blade is firm but soft, sweet with its own characteristics flavour,” Minh Anh said, adding that the dish is more enjoyable when eaten during winter days.

Anh added that Loan’s shop is often crowded with fans of the food, just like her, but she and her boyfriend still patiently wait for their favourite dish to be served up. — VNS