By Alex Reeves – @afreeves23

Always on the lookout for different, or at the very least, new additions to the culinary scene, this one, I must admit, caught me sleeping. After years of relying on them for last-minute thirsty friends Christmas gifts or never quite making it to their outdoor cinema nights, I finally followed The Bottle Shop’s socials to keep up to date with Tây Hồ happenings, such as their upcoming Đặng Thai Mai block party on 21/12 (save the date).

I’m glad I did, as it became apparent they were serving up Sri Lankan food, seemingly with a legit chef in the kitchen to boot. Now, Hà Nội does have a surprisingly rich variety of international food for somewhere prided mostly on local fare rather than as a cosmopolitan metropolis. However, Sri Lankan (Lankan for short) dishes, with a bona fide, authentic Chef, less than 20 minutes from my door, behind my go-to spot for craft beer? Had I been living under a rock? Apparently so.

Sri Lankan, a cuisine that I’ve salivated over, like so many others, since an episode of Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown from 2017. So, I did what any logical person would, and invited a group of good friends for a sunny afternoon sharing plates and clinking glasses in our host's backyard, a welcome escape from the usual urban scenery. All the right people had free afternoons, curiosity for craft beer, new flavours, and a desire for a break from the kerbside, without the all-too-familiar drive to Sóc Sơn.

The kitchen opens at 2:30 am midweek (Tuesday - Friday), 12:00 for weekends, closing 9:00-9:30 pm. It’s ideal for a later lunch after a midday nap or an afternoon of libations and discovery. While Chef Kumar does have a ‘Kumar goes West’ menu for those with a less adventurous palate, we were there for the ‘Taste of Lanka’ which so piqued my interest.

First up, a Lankan classic; ‘Hoppers’ or ‘Appam’. Rice flour and ground coconut batter (gluten-free), fried up in a small, deep pan, where the chef breaks a whole egg and covers it just as the batter begins to cook. The result – a thin, pancake-like basin of eggy goodness, served with a duo of sambals; coconut and Katta (Maldivian dried fish), offering sweetness and salt with a light, crispy vessel to transport us into a new world of flavours (VNĐ95,000). 

Next, a dish(es) very much in line with Bottle Shops’ ‘Never tried, never know’ ethos – the ‘Kottu’ brothers (VNĐ120-180,000). Literally meaning “to chop” in Tamil, Kottu is arguably the island nation's most enduring dish, popularised as a food of the people, served up affordably, roadside and packed with flavour, capturing the hearts, minds, and stomachs of Sri Lankans, as it did ours.

Originally, charred paratha (flatbread), scrambled eggs, deep, heartening spices with vegetables and meat, fish, or even cheese are tossed and chopped together with a blunt cleaver as they sauté on a hot griddle. It’s as good as it sounds. The distinctive clink of the cleaver during this Sri Lankan-style Teppanyaki, the soundtrack to your eagerness emanating from the kitchen. 

Our currently mortified flipper-friendly readers can now breathe a sigh of relief, as I’m delighted to report no dolphins are harmed in preparation of Kottu’s mysterious brother – ‘Dolphin’. A modern, spicier, more indulgent affair. Prepared by wok, with larger, rougher pieces of hand-torn paratha. Curry sauce is added to the mix along with additional chilli paste and flakes.

The origins of this dish are murkier than the waters its namesake frequents. Some say when the chef’s pan flips, larger pieces of bread fly up resembling dolphins jumping out of the water. Others attribute it to a favoured twist of Toyota Dolphin drivers crossing Sri Lanka. The truth? When it tastes this good, who cares. 

There’s also the generously portioned ‘Lankan Lunch’ set (VNĐ150,000), consisting of basmati rice, choice of curry, dahl, poppadom, and of course, more sambal. The dahl – creamy, and the black pork curry is as rich in flavour as it is tender in texture. The dark roasted curry powder, tamarind paste, and black pepper provide real depth. I would also be remiss not to mention the succulent batter-fried shrimp (VNĐ160,000) and Gobi Manchurian (VNĐ100,000), of a different spice profile but still complementing the Lankan fare.

This collaboration between The Bottle Shop and Chef Kumar in bringing beloved food to Hà Nội is a delight. The menu is tight, putting focus on quality over quantity. Portions are generous, with enough choice for a repeat visit while not going overboard. All to be washed down with the absolute catalogue of beverages on offer.

An actual beer garden is a wonderful, vastly underrated thing. One with a whole new and promising array of food to get stuck into? That can change the trajectory of a whole week. And so it did, what was an unexpected stumble of a discovery and perhaps will be to readers outside the Tây Hồ or even the more localised Đặng Thai Mai bubble, ended up being one of the best afternoons of the year and a perfect sign-off for 2024. VNS

The Bottle Shop

Address: 5B Ngõ 12 Đặng Thai Mai Street, Tây Hồ District, Hà Nội 

Tel: 0983 171 366

Price: VNĐ150,000 - 500,000 ($6-20) for a true Sri Lankan feast (excluding beverages)