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| Local expert: Bon Nieng Ha Sao is known as the last carving artisan of the Cil ethnic community. |
Viet Nam News
by Ngoc Nga
The Neu pole (a tall bamboo post put up in front of a private or communal house) plays an important role in the spiritual life of the Cil ethnic minority people in the Central Highlands province of Lam Dong.
The pole, symbolising the connection between humans and the gods, is often put up in front of a communal house during important ceremonies or festivals. It is believed that when the neu pole is erected, the gods will participate in the event and bestow blessings on local people.
The locals often carve the pole with delicate patterns featuring vignettes of daily life and their wishes.
Bon Nieng Ha Sao, a native of Dung K’No Commune of Lam Dong Province, is known as an artisan who can carve almost any traditional patterns of the Cil people onto the neu pole.
“If you want to learn about the decorations and culture of the Cil, then you should find Bon Nieng Ha Sao,” said Phi Sron Ha Nrang from Dung K’No Commune.
Several years ago, before Sao moved in with his wife’s family, his father-in-law introduced him to the art of carving and taught him the meaning of the decorative patterns of the Cil. As his father-in-law got older, his eyes and hands were not as sharp as before, and he asked Sao to take over the craft. The more Sao practised, the better he became.
Sao is now able to carve designs not only on the neu pole but also on tobacco pipes and boxes, flutes, and quivers.
Sao is now an experienced artisan, yet he still remembers his first days on the job. He said he was so bewildered, as he “didn’t know how to carve the delicate lines into the big, straight pole.”
“This job requires special attention and takes lots of time, therefore patience is crucial. When my father-in-law was alive, he and I would sit under the tree in front of our house and carve these works of art. He would sit near me and tell me the stories and meanings behind every single pattern. I learned everything from him,” said Sao.
“I think it’s the way things work – to master a skill, one has to understand its meaning first,” said Sao.
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| Intricate: Sao carves on not only neu poles but also pipes, flutes and tobacco boxes. — VNS Photos Ngoc Nga |
Through this training, Sao’s father-in-law not only taught him the skills of carving and the importance of local traditions, but also inspired in him the love for the craft and a sense of responsibility to preserve the artform.
Working on the fields might have made his hands hard and calloused, yet when it comes to carving, his hands are delicate and dexterous.
A small, sharp knife is all he needs. Sao dedicates all of his concentration to the work and slowly carves thin lines into the surface of the wood.
“It’s not simply a decoration, it’s what’s really happening in the lives of the Cil people over the years,” Sao said about the patterns he loves so much.
Each pattern has a story
Sao showed off a short neu pole that he has just finished carving for a family in Dam Ron to celebrate their new house, patiently explaining the meaning of the 10 patterns along its surface.
“Each pattern has its own meaning” Sao said.
Weih for example is a special kind of knife that locals use as a tool for farming and a weapon when they head into the jungle.
Sonual is a fishing net. Locals here have a unique tradition – if they catch fish for food, they keep just the small ones and free the big ones.
A neu pole can also feature Mattonge (the sun), as it is believed to bring life to people. “Without sun and light, people can’t survive,” Sao explained.
Matsem (eyes) symbolises birds flying in the sky with a panoramic view of the jungle where locals live.
Serondot (serrated teeth) recalls an old tradition. In ancient times, people would cut and file their teeth. Men had their top front teeth removed while women would sharpen their bottom teeth and dye them black with herbs.
Those who hadn’t had their teeth removed (for men) or sharpened and dyed (for women) couldn’t get married.
Another symbol is the nhaguool, a type of leaf which is used to shelter from the harsh sun.
“Some patterns may be more popular than others yet each illustrates aspects of real life – the animals, plants or tools used each day,” Sao said.
“Patterns with thin and curving lines are the most difficult,” he said.
“Locals believe that the forest is mother nature. The forest gives us several things in life. The Cil people, therefore, protect the forest like a treasure.”
Sao said: “Our ancestors do everything with meaning. The patterns carved on the neu pole are wishes sent to the gods. The designs are a way to express their hopes for a good life,” Sao said.
After learning about Sao, his culture and skills, as well as his wide knowledge on local culture, many tour companies have sought to collaborate with him and develop local tourism.
Experienced tour guide K’Vang who helped connect tour companies to Sao said: “Tourists visit Sao to learn about local culture. What they brought home are the stories he shared. They also brought back gifts like bamboo pipes and tools carved with many beautiful patterns.” --VNS
OVietnam