Discover Hà Nội’s bánh đúc nóng of Bà Nội

Ho Hoang

As a former student at Le Ngoc Han Primary School, I look back on good memories every time I pass the old Lo Duc Street of Ha Noi. 

I spent five years studying and getting acquainted with the places and the people living nearby, including many of my friends. So whenever I pass by and see students lining up neatly in a queue and preparing to cross the road with the guidance of their teacher, I feel like I’ve gone back in time.

The thing I love about the area around Lo Duc Street is that things don’t change much. There’s still many shops that remain the same as they were when I studied there 12 years ago. The “Pho Thin” restaurant at 13 Lo Duc, the traditional Thai Nguyen tea at 16 Lo Duc, even the “Bun cha Huong Lien” (or Bun Cha Obama) at 24 Le Van Huu nearby has been there since 1993. Everything seems to retain its old beauty.

But for a nostalgic person like me, and in this cool but good-tempered weather of autumn, the most wonderful place is a banh duc (Vietnamese salted rice flour cake) shop nearby at Lane 8B Le Ngoc Han Street. My father and I used to eat there after school every winter. The place today brings me so much emotion every time I pass by.

Local favourite: Noi and her well-decorated kitchen are ready to serve hundreds of eaters a day.

The shop called “Banh Duc Nong Ba Noi”, or Noi’s Hot Banh Duc, is considered among the most famous of the area’s long-standing eateries, serving Hanoians for more than 30 years.  

The dish is described by Vietnamese gastronome and famous writer Vu Bang as having “the cool taste typical of the east – deep and gentle without any garishness and noisiness” in his book entitled The Tasty Dishes of Ha Noi.

There is no other better explanation for this pleasant snack than that from the legendary Vu Bang. Almost every Banh Duc shop in the capital, including Banh Duc Ba Noi, is really simple, cozy with a small and warm space. Most of them look very old and that’s one reason they often trigger such nostalgia.

Placed inside a very small lane (Lane 8B) of Le Ngoc Han Street, customers have to park outside and walk a little bit to get a seat in the shop, and it can be crowded during peak times.

Of course, the recipe is as simple and gentle as Vu Bang described, but a perfect combination of delicious ingredients.

The ingredients are chosen carefully by Noi – from rice, pork, black fungus, dried onion, herbs and fried tofu with the trademark sour, salty and sweet flavour balance, all together creates a wonderful combination inside a hot bowl.

The initial steps involve several meticulous processes, from making the rice cake with oil and tapioca starch and forming the steamed rice flour into the right shape, to carefully grinding the pork and mixing it with black fungus. Mix them all together with dried onion and herbs, and a complete bowl is ready to serve.

The master at work: Noi and her fragrant hot banh duc pot.

The amazing part of this bowl is that, when I taste the first bite, it was just like I remembered from 12 years ago. The oily rice cake is so rich, warm and flexible and the mix of ground pork and black fungus delivers a unique pleasant taste. Each bowl consists of three pieces of tofu, fried in perfect heat so it’s not too crunchy and still soft inside. If you get a bite that’s too greasy, adding the herbs and dried onion can deliver a refreshing sensation.

According to owner Pham Thi Noi, her family is a pioneer of serving the dish in the capital with more than 30 years of experience. Before opening the restaurant, making the dish at home was a family tradition.

“My family started making banh duc from the very early days, through out several generations until my time. I’ve learned from my grandmother. To tell you whether it is easy or hard is very difficult to say because the recipe of making hot banh duc is quite similar at each establishment and quite straightforward, but you can make it unique and better by adjusting certain ingredients. For example, for me three pieces of tofu is enough and my family has our own secret recipe for the sauce,” Noi shares. 

“Many of my customers have been eating at this shop since the day they were young. We also welcome guests from other districts, and foreign tourists from many countries come to try the dish at this tiny shop instead of going to other much fancier modern Banh Duc shops nowadays, and that’s what makes me feel so proud of our family’s career,” she added.

The shop had to move from its original street-side location to the small lane of Le Ngoc Han Street, which led to a decrease in customers. But the reputation of this shop has remained strong and they still serve the delicious hot dish for hundreds of customers every day.

Labour of love: A tasty and delicious bowl of Banh Duc, cooked and decorated meticulously by Noi.

“I have been eating the dish at this shop for 20 years now because it is the best in this city. From the early days, when life was still very hard, I still remember there was only rice cake and fried tofu with a little bit of onion, but it was still very good. Now, with the addition of ground pork, black fungus, dried onion and herb, it is even better. I love the way the shop is still standing strong for a long time, it’s like a witness to the development of Ha Noi,” said 50-year-old Nguyen Manh Dung.

“The price still stays very cheap at VND15,000 for so many years without any changes even though ingredients’ prices have been increasing day by day. As a gastronome, I understand the value of this traditional food and I am totally happy with the way Noi is keeping the cheap price in order to preserve the value of the dish,” said Ngo Duc Anh.

Delicious, healthy and cheap food is the key for Noi to attract customers. On the other hand, despite facing difficulties, especially in dealing with the rising price of ingredients, Noi is still trying her best to deliver the finest banh duc with an unchanged price.

“I accept the risk to earn just a profit. All of my family members have been involved in the job in order to preserve the value of the dish. It is a traditional and very meaningful food of Vietnamese people. It represents a hard time of the country when people were still struggling and dealing with hunger. Banh duc was a very cheap snack for people those days and became a symbol of a simple but wonderful food for poor people. Our family has been operating the shop from that time till now, so we understand the value and still try our best to preserve it,” Noi told me. — VNS