Dining


Sunday, 07/01/2024 10:00

Traversing Tây Hồ: Little Thai goes big

By Alex Reeves @afreeves23

Thai food really hits the sweet (and spicy) spot. Many a time I have found Vietnamese friends and I debating the merits of different cuisines, some with a more traditional palate take little pleasure in France’s stinky cheeses or even in the heavily salted meat and broths of continental neighbours, Japan. 

Conversely I have had almost as many conversations with visiting family, friends, and even some temporary residents of Việt Nam itself about the country's own cuisine. Some seem confused by the prospect of seasoning to your own satisfaction or, beyond a few classic local dishes, struggle with the flavour combinations at play here. 

A Busy Table: Classics and new dishes delight in equal measure. Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves

My take on Thai food is that it is overwhelmingly given the thumbs up from anyone and everyone. It is spicy, sweet, salty, sour and savoury; flavours aplenty to keep everyone at the table happy. Such is its popularity and variety that it is often the dominant Asian background to so many culinary fusion ventures and every town and city has a spot, though quality and authenticity may vary.

The aforementioned temporary residents, especially those of a certain area, need worry no more, as an already much-loved (by those familiar) eatery has taken the opportunity to expand operations to a larger venue. Little Thai, has gone big. Taking over a three-storey venue around the corner from their previous spot, they can now accommodate even more of Tây Hồ’s hungry residents, and there’s room for the rest of us too.

Always Check The Board: Crispy shrimp doughnuts were a great addition. Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves

The new place, located at 33/67 Tô Ngọc Vân Street has two outdoor eating areas in the front yard and the roof terrace for an al fresco feel, sure to make it more popular through weather patterns which change only mildly less frequently than the cravings of the average expat, myself most certainly included. Indoor caters for larger groups upstairs and more intimate affairs at the ground level.

It’s nicely lit to add a romantic vibe to an evening or a fresh feeling around lunch with the rooftop catching a pleasant amount of sun. The almost French touch to the setting doesn’t end with the new-colonial architecture which characterises so much of Hà Nội, Monsieur Edouard is experienced in the restaurant trade and on-hand to keep operations tight throughout. 

The grand opening was earlier this month and recent attention from the well-informed bunch over at @whereinhanoi has seen positive commentary which matched my own experience from the soft opening I attended in November. A recent netizen posted what they believed to be a long-shot trying to hunt down a rare Northern-Thai curry (Khao Soi) and Little Thai was on hand to shorten those odds to a certainty. 

Little Thai Goes Big: A three-storey upgrade for a local favourite. Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves

The star of the show here and what really separates this establishment from many of the others in town is Chef Pim. Rumour, which she will kindly and modestly verify, has it that she has cooked for Thai Royalty and brings the same focus and pride to cooking for us here in Hà Nội.

Her knowledge of the homeland and its bounty is abundantly clear, from the Tom Yam Goong (VNĐ255,000 or US$10) which was as rich in colour as it was flavour. The chef spends hours perfecting the iconic base to this soup each day.

Phad Se-Ew Gai (VNĐ175,000 or $7) is the stir-fried chicken and wide flat noodles we know so well, the balance of aromatics alongside familiar chilli, garlic and vegetables are unmistakable to anyone who has had the pleasure of eating in Thailand. Lastly, we were able to enjoy a special of Tod Mun Goong (VNĐ220,000 or $9), a type of crispy shrimp doughnut with sweet chilli sauce - always checking the board has never let me down.

This should become the de facto place to go for Thai food in Hà Nội. Setting, authenticity, good service, a variable menu and a chef fit for royalty who cooks that dish you miss from your first trip to Southeast Asia, yes please. It’s a restaurant that will certainly lure me to the north-western corner of the cities’ central districts on a more regular basis.  

To me, LittleThai has always been where Western and Vietnamese preferences for new food converge and I invite any culinarily diverse couples or friend groups to head here searching for delicious common ground, for a full restaurant and bar experience. There is much peace and satisfaction to be found when a little Thai wisdom meets a big appetite. VNS

Little Thai Restaurant

Tel: 0967 315 088

Address: 33/67 Tô Ngọc Vân Street, Quảng An Ward, Tây Hồ District, Hà Nội

Price: VNĐ1.2 million or US$49 (for three dishes and drinks)

Top tip: The classics are good, but there’s a whole medley of less common dishes to enjoy – choose something new.


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