By Alex Reeves @AFREEVES23
Hanoi Cider House: The full monty
As to be expected from an establishment headed by a fellow Englishman, this ticked all the right boxes for me. The details do matter. Bread sauce, proper chicken gravy, and cranberry and orange sauce to pair with the multitude of meats available to you. Twenty-four-hour cider-brined roast chicken kept moist from under-the-skin garlic and rosemary butter and topped with a slice of smoked bacon, hunks of roasted ham in a sticky marmalade and pineapple cider glaze and pigs in blankets.
A True Feast: Don’t worry about leaving hungry if you choose HCH. — Photo courtesy of Marcus Lacey
The simplicity yet importance of sausages wrapped in bacon cannot be understated on a British Christmas dinner plate. Anyone who’s been here before will know they do not mess around when it comes to their meat. This offering is available throughout December and accompanied by a broad drinks menu. It comes as a feast for four and quality comes first, so please give a few days' notice. (VNĐ2,749,000 or US$99).
Address: 278 Nghi Tàm St, Yên Phụ Ward, Tây Hồ Dist. Phone: 0398 071 672
Rosas – Make it a celebration
Full disclosure: I have spent two of my Hanoian Christmases celebrating with my fellow expatriates and new found friends here. The big day itself functions as a buffet with free-flow cocktails, beers and wine – no fishing around in your pockets for your wallet while trying to channel the festive spirit. The mezze board is a great touch which stays true to the eatery's Mediterranean style. Multiple cheeses and cold-cured meat surrounded by peppers, olives and fresh bread.
Let’s Get Mezze: The atmosphere at Rosas is as vibrant as their board. — Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves
If you’ve saved space there are cuttings of equally juicy chicken and sliced beef, proper Yorkshire puddings and plenty of greens. I have a lot of time for a roast where I don’t have to sheepishly ask for extra gravy, and meat sauce fans will rejoice at a dinner swimming in a rich pool of the good stuff. A truly satisfying meal, number one for the atmosphere, with plenty of other revellers enjoying the season's classics. The closer to the 25th you get, the more chance of a dance you will have. (VNĐ2,000,000 or $80 per head – drinks included).
Address: 30 Tô Ngọc Vân St, Quảng An Ward, Tây Hồ Dist. Phone: 024 6657 8799
The Fat Pig – Authenticity counts
In order to actually try all of the great offerings on our list, I enjoyed the Thanksgiving feast at The Fat Pig to get as close to the real thing as possible. American readers will know that no cost is spared for such an occasion, and that much was evident in a near-faultless meal. Cold cuts or vegetables with hummus get things started before a festively spiced butternut squash. Again we have two meats on our plate, with real slow-smoked turkey and a succulent slice of honey-glazed ham. Rich turkey gravy is on hand, with more available if needed, and we have our first appearance of Brussels sprouts.
A Family Affair: An authentic meal with great service at The Fat Pig. — Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves
Points for authenticity must be awarded here, with the inclusion of the appropriate festive bird and rarely found Brussels sprouts. The drink selection is great (free-flow available at VNĐ595,000 or $25). This would be a lovely spot to take the family. Fellow diners are merry but not raucous, the finer details of the restaurant and the impeccable manners of the staff make it feel like they genuinely appreciate the importance of your day. This is available throughout December for groups of six or more, and they have the strongest vegetarian option, book in advance.
(Adults: VNĐ995,000/$41; Kids: VNĐ495,000/$20)
Address: 74 Quảng An St, Quảng An Ward, Tây Hồ Dist. Phone: 024 6292 4120
The Capella Hanoi – A luxury option
Now, roasts aren’t for everyone. While I might be keen to tuck into a heavy plate, others prefer something a little more refined. The Capella, a well-known 5-star hotel, has been winning a number of awards in recent years and is providing a festive option throughout the month rather than throwing everything at the big day. The ‘Festive Afternoon Tea’ menu feels like a genuine step into opulence. The service is impeccable and the attention to detail in both the food and setting are fitting of the hotel’s reputation.
A Capella Affair: A dining room which lets you know you’re in for a treat. — Photo courtesy of Alex Reeves
The savoury tier is no ordinary affair; the salmon pastrami bagel with cream cheese comes alongside a smoked ikura (roe), roasted turkey, cranberry, and spinach pin roll, each bite better than the last. They sit alongside a Boston lobster brioche roll, generously adorned with Capella imperial caviar, and a Wagyu beef cheek crumpet boasting 36-month-aged "Les Frères Marchand" Comté cheese, a union of luxury and indulgence.
The sweet tier sits above with ‘Anna Held's Sweet Treat’, a sandwich featuring orange and cinnamon parfait, splendid. The scones, a trinity of plain, cranberry, and dried fruit, play well with homemade jams and French chantilly cream. The pastries and cakes, from hazelnut choux au craquelin to the quaint Capella Hanoi opera cake are joined by a Sarah Bernhardt cookie, chocolate dome, raspberry candy and white chocolate rosewater ganache showcasing a true commitment to decadence.
This is a lot, but that’s what Christmas is all about, isn’t it? The tea is lovely and there's a helping of mulled wine available; this step into luxury comes at a price mark many will consider reasonable. (VNĐ1,960,000 or $80 for two)
Address: 11 Lê Phụng Hiểu St, Hoàn Kiếm Dist. Phone: 024 3987 8888
Puku Cafe – Everyone’s welcome
For many, Puku needs no introduction. Popular with locals, digital nomads, sports fans, tourists and the occasional diplomat, just about everyone in Hà Nội has popped in at some point. They do what they do best, the closest you can get with locally sourced ingredients. There’s no big sell here, no pomping up of the menu or unnecessary adjectives.
Tis’ The Season: No shortage of merriment at Puku Cafe. — Photo courtesy of Puku Cafe
They serve a fair portion of Turkey or ham (both for a little extra dong) with all the classic trimmings, sprouts aside. A glass of wine is included and vegetarians are catered for. Puku’s staff, many of whom have been on the team for a number of years, know how to make you feel welcome, and you won’t bankrupt yourself in the festivities. For me, Truong and his team make it feel like home away from home. (VNĐ520,000 or $21)
Address: 16-18 Tống Duy Tân St, Hoàn Kiếm Dist. Phone: 024 3938 1745
So there we have it, five options to cover all bases. I may have inadvertently gained a few kilos in the name of ‘research’ for this article, but it was worth every mouthful. None of them will let you down, and they all bring something different to the table.
Merry Christmas to one and all. VNS
OVietnam