Ly Quy Trung, owner of Pho 24, a successful southern restaurant chain model which has enjoyed success in both Ha Noi and abroad took part in the 11th European Foodservice Summit in Zurich, Switzerland, last month. It was the first time that Vietnamese cuisine had appeared at the event. Pho was also the only food on display to represent Asia at the summit.
Trung was interviewed by Thuy Pham.
Could you tell us about the event and how you became one of the 14 speakers there?
The event is held annually. The 11th European Foodservice Summit aimed to orientate and predict restaurant business development across the world. About 250 owners and general directors of restaurants along with members of the press attended the event. With the exception of speakers, all attendees had to pay a fee.
I was invited as one of the main speakers. I was the first Asian to ever speak at the event. The organisers had travelled to Viet Nam before to meet and interview me. After two interviews I received an official invitation. I know that they also surveyed a number of other regional countries.
Asia now has many big names in the restaurant industry but I don't think that interested the organisers. Restaurant chains that took part in the event were not big names but special, with unique methods and techniques that could be copied in most modern countries. I think that was why Pho 24 was chosen to take part in the event.
Vietnamese cuisine is an emerging market. Other cuisine like Chinese, Japanese and Thai are already well established and Vietnamese cuisine could be next.
Why is it ‘could be' not ‘sure'?
At present, more interest is starting to be shown in Vietnamese food. I say that for three reasons. Firstly, Vietnamese dishes are rich and nutritious. Secondly, we are in the Asia region which is a trendy part of the world. Finally, Viet Nam attracts a lot of attention in general, not just in cuisine.
However, we need the right strategy and investment in order for Vietnamese cuisine to become fully recognised. For example, cuisine should be developed as a national brand. Support from the State is also necessary in the fields of information, tax and licensing.
I know that many Vietnamese want to develop their restaurant chains abroad. I'm ready to share my experience with others. We need to be unified in our push for recognition. It would take a long time to do it all as individuals. Support from the State would increase progress.
Could you tell us something about your success with the development of Pho 24?
Fast-food chains like KFC appeared in Viet Nam in 1993. It now has 70 restaurants and Lotteria has 59. Since 2003, Pho 24 has opened 60 restaurants including 17 abroad. Pho 24 is growing rapidly.
Pho 24 is the first Vietnamese restaurant chain to operate to international standards. It means that the cooking procedures are standardised on paper. Normally, traditional pho restaurants depend on the individual chef's tastes.
The success of Pho 24 proves that popular Vietnamese dishes can be a success in restaurants around the world.
Many people are afraid of that traditional pho will lose its uniqueness through modernisation and the need to conform to international standards. What do you think?
I don't think so. Our food is prepared in line with these standards but the taste is still one hundred per cent Vietnamese.
Pho 24 restaurants are equipped with air-conditioning but we still use chopsticks. Pho 24 is cooked with traditional steps but in a more hygienic way. Pho eaters have more choices. Overseas Vietnamese like to enjoy traditional dishes that remind them of home.
Pho is very popular. Does that present any negative points?
The biggest challenge is that everybody can cook pho and think theirs is the best. But to make the good taste of pho is not simple. When I opened Pho 24 in Ha Noi, many people don't believe pho Sai Gon would be accepted in Ha Noi.
Hanoians came to Pho 24 out of curiosity. At that time, pho Ha Noi was sold for just a few thousand dong while Pho 24 cost at least 24,000 dong. Some people liked it and some people didn't. I understand that Hanoians want to try something from the south but I didn't know how to get them to keep coming back.
Hygiene and good service are strong points of Pho 24. Pho 24 is not as sweet as pho Sai Gon and does not have as much monosodium glutamate as pho Ha Noi.
Pho 24 restaurants in Ha Noi are much more crowded than in HCM City. If Pho 24 was cooked in the style of Ha Noi, it would not be successful. Delicious is an abstract concept. It depends on habits which can change. — VNS