Authentic Indian far from home in Hà Nội

by Paul Kennedy

There’s something incredibly British about Indian food. It is, after all, the United Kingdom’s traditional dish.

At the last count, there were more than 10,000 Indian restaurants stretching the length and breadth of Britain bringing in hundreds of millions of dollars to the country’s economy.

An Indian meal is as much a rite of passage for a young Brit as owning their first car, or tasting their first alcoholic drink. A night out and curry go together like poppadoms and chutney.

You start off slow, maybe trying a Korma, but before too long the mild meals are nothing but a distant memory as you become more accustomed to spice.

It’s tikkas and jalfrezis from now on, and before you know it, vindaloo.

As a result of its ubiquity in the UK, Brits fancy themselves Indian food experts. In reality, our barometers for authenticity were honed not in Bombay but probably Bradford.

Are we really eating traditional dishes? Take tikka masala for instance: It’s rumoured to have been invented in Scotland by a chef who wanted to create a dish more suited to the local pallet.

And as for vindaloo, that dish came from Goa when the colony was under Portuguese control.

So what exactly is traditional?

Here in Ha Noi, there’s an easy way to learn, discover and enjoy. Tucked away on Hang Dieu Street is Zaika.

Its exterior may be slight in appearance, but looks can deceive. Inside the elegant lobby, the decoration is tasteful and oozes class not crass.

The path through this long, tunneled restaurant leads to a windowed partition through which customers can watch the kitchen and its hardworking staff.

After you’ve sat down and if you’re feeling unsure about the menu, undecided about what to have, spoilt for choice or simply unfamiliar with what’s on offer try a little tip I’ve tested the world over and never once been disappointed.

Chicken delight: Murg Seekh Kebab is a firm favourite. VNS Photo Viet Thanh

Just tell the staff to prepare for you whatever they want. They know best. And with a wealth of experience and vast knowledge of all things Indian, owner Suruchi Kumar is the best person to ask.

My guest and I were not fussy, so we left it in her capable hands.

We started with Aloo Tikki Chaat (VND75,000), two potato cakes with cumin seeds, fresh ginger and spices topped with yoghurt and mint sauce—a heady combination that complimented each part well.

As always with the first dish, it was devoured at breakneck speed and didn’t disappoint. The mint was present but far from overpowering.

Next we were in for a real treat: lamb chops (VND220,000).

Lamb is a difficult meat to cook. There’s little leeway and it has to be just right. The chef nailed it.