Cù Lao Chàm, the reality of the conservation park

By Nguyen My Ha

Cu Lao Cham is only 20 minutes by speedboat from Hoi An. The island has been sitting on my must-see list for a long time. Not only was it a dream destination in children’s adventure books, it was also known as a paradise of crystal clear water, lush green foliage, pristine beaches and, last but not least, an inviting seabed perfect for amateur snorkeling.

We signed up for the most popular tour, with a ticket covering a return boat ride, snorkeling and swimming, a seafood lunch, and, of course, the environment fee.

Cu Lao Cham, or known in English as Cham Islands Biosphere Reserve, was recognised as a Global Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2009, under its “Man and the Biosphere Programme”, for its rich biodiversity.

The reserve covers an area of 5,000ha, including 165ha of coral reef and 500ha of underwater plant life.

It was the coral reef that was most inviting. Because our children loved the animated film ‘Finding Nemo’ we had high expectations of finding something lively and colourful like the famous little fish.

Thrill seeking: Watersports are available to try at one of many beautiful beaches on the Cham Islands. — VNA/VNS Photo Thanh Ha

Plastic still a problem

No plastic bags have been allowed on the island since it was recognised as a UNESCO reserve in 2009.

“Sea turtles love to eat jellyfish, but they can’t tell the difference between jellyfish and plastic bags. If sea turtles eat them, they would eventually die,” explained our guide Sang.

Just last month, the Cham Islands became the first marine park institution to ban plastic straws. As an eco-friendly team, we applauded the effort and were assured that the Cham Islands are well protected.

The fun boat ride went by really fast, but as the boat arrived at our destination, I watched in awe, not because of the white sand beaches, but because of the hundreds of plastic bottles that had washed ashore.

No one else seemed uncomfortable by the sight, or maybe they didn’t see them at all. I could only pick up some bottles to put them in a garbage bin. That was when reality kicked in.

“There are three special things you must see on the island: the stone crabs, an ancient Cham well that has provided drinking water for the island for the past 200 years and a special ‘lady’s breast’ escargot.”

Peaceful: Pastoral life among rice fields on the island.

We walked to the island’s Aquamarine Museum. It was smaller than the Aquamarine Museum in Nha Trang, but the items were different and very interesting.

My little girl jumped at the preserved giant sea turtle that she has seen in ‘Finding Nemo’. It was the only time she asked to have her picture taken to send it to her classmates.

The museum did not have any live creatures on display. All of them are either dried or soaked in formaldehyde. Having been to some better aquamarine museums, I held a deep wish that more funding could go towards a better live marine creatures section for children to enjoy. Even just a glass wall dug into the water to see real fish and squid swimming around, no need for dolphin shows or the like.

“Where’s the snails?” my daughter asked. On the shelf, next to the tag ‘Lady’s breast escargot’ was an empty space.

We moved on to the ancient Cham well. “Cham people had a secret in digging this well so that it never stopped churning out clean water for the past 200 years,” said Sang the guide.

“If you are a couple and wish to have children, you may drink the water from the well. The legend is true, because there were people who succeeded in having children after taking a sip.”

The story was selling well to the crowd. Many people lined up for their turn with the bucket. And yes, the water was cool and refreshing.